Atlantic Highlands is fast turning into a Jersey Shore culinary vacation spot, due in no small part to the vision and efforts of Michael Krikorian, who has now become not content to be head chef and proprietor of two superb restaurants in town, and has now opened a 3rd. Each has a particular menu and fashion of cuisine. The highly regarded Copper Canyon, a south-western-themed eatery, and Gaslight Gastropub, with its vast choice of beers and pub food, are joined by his ultra-modern venture, Higo, described as first-class Asian fusion. To do one subject properly is admirable; to do three distinctive subject matters properly, astounding.
Open handiest one month; the menu continues to be evolving. However, the provider and all of the services had been polished and very well performed. The room is upscale, with high ceilings, ground-to-ceiling windows, generously spaced tables, and soothing lighting fixtures, as well as subdued noise levels – a rarity these days!
My visitors gave a big thumbs-up to the Green Papaya Salad ($9), long slivers of papaya, dressed in lime, peanuts, chilies, mint, and cilantro. Crunchy and tangy, it turned into an ideal opener to whet the appetite. A large portion of Seaweed Salad ($6), served with sesame seeds and combined greens, did not break any new ground but turned out light and fresh. From the Signature Rolls segment, the impeccably clean 1st Avenue Roll ($14), with rice paper, tuna, salmon, beets, asparagus, and mango-chili sauce, turned into a terrific mix of textures and flavors.
Crab Cake ($20), fat chunks of clean, candy, crabmeat, with not a speck of cartilage and no filler, plated with arugula, toddler kale, wild vegetables, chili-soy dressing, and topped with a poached egg, was crispy on the out of doors and meltingly tender inside. This becomes one of the dishes of the night and isn’t to be ignored!
Another memorable starter, Shrimp Dumplings ($10), in a delectable yuzu butter sauce, with sesame seeds and shitake mushrooms, got sturdy reviews from my visitors and me. The smooth dough encased plump shrimp, controlled to preserve simply sufficient crunch to offer a fun comparison of textures.
We liked two distinctive fowl dishes also under the Small Plates section. Chicken Satay ($12), with scallions, sweet soy, and crushed peanuts, was turned into grilled until the coating was caramelized and richly flavored, whilst the chicken itself became juicy and smooth. Equally tasty, Crisped Chicken Bites ($11), with curry, brown rice flour, ginger, and greens, become spicy, however now not overly so.
Succulent, flawlessly cooked Mongolian Lamb Chops ($16) with chilis, garlic, and ginger became an incredible instance of a few easy ingredients, flawlessly prepared, coming together in ideal harmony. Yum! From the Large Plates section, Soy Braised Beef Short Ribs ($25), with infant bok choy, freshly mashed potatoes, ginger, carrots, and sesame, was every other favorite of the night. Small pieces of beef, off the bone, had been well-browned and juicy.
A beneficiant slab of Miso Glazed Salmon ($28), plated with sushi rice risotto, asparagus tips, and broccoli, cooked a minute past medium uncommon, was pretty suitable, however, it needed a bit more zip within the seasoning department.
5 Spice Roasted Chicken ($24) arrived atop wonton noodles, spinach, asparagus, sesame, and chilis; the thick slices of white and dark meat, redolent of the spice combination of cinnamon, superstar anise, cloves, fennel, and Szechuan peppercorns, changed into addictive. Another well-acquired entrée, Beef and Broccoli ($35), sliced strip steak with a soy glaze, sea salt, and nicely charred broccoli, became well-prepared and deeply pleasant.
